Do you have dry skin year-round or struggle with flakes more during the cold months of the year? Skin hydration is essential for skin health but it’s hard to know what ingredients keep their hydration promise. One MVP for skint that has grabbed the spotlight is hyaluronic acid (HA).
HA, also known as hyaluronan, is an important member of the glycosaminoglycan (GAG) family. HA is naturally found in many areas of the human body, including the skin, eyes, and synovial fluid of the joints. The bad news—our HA production decreases as we age, and sun damage and pollution may hasten this process. While we think of ourselves as the HA temples, bacteria also play a role in the production of HA. Via a process called bio-fermentation, we used bacteria to create HA for skincare products. In addition, the millions of bacteria on our skin also produce HA, which leads to a healthy microbiome. And a fun, random fact, HA can also come from rooster combs, the red, Mohawk-like growth on top of a rooster’s head and face. Well, cock-a-doodle-do!
HA is what we call a humectant — a substance that pulls water from the environment and it’s also capable of drawing water from the dermis into the upper layers of the skin. HA is a powerful substance and can bind over one thousand times its weight in water. Pretty impressive, huh? As a result, HA has many benefits including plumping fine lines and wrinkles, replacing skin volume loss, increasing hydration and skin barrier strength. HA has even been shown to help with eye and vaginal dryness and when taken orally, may improve acid reflux. If you look at your product label, hyaluronic acid might be listed as other forms such as sodium hyaluronate, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, and sodium hyaluronate oleate (which is olive derived).
For HA, size matters! HA comes in different molecular sizes which correlates with how deeply it penetrates the skin. The bigger the HA molecule, the less it can be absorbed into the skin. Large molecular weight HA stays on the skin’s surface, while smaller molecule versions penetrate into the epidermis. The smaller the HA molecule, the deeper it can go into the epidermis. If your HA says it’s hydrolyzed, then the HA molecule has been broken down into smaller pieces to allow it to penetrate further into the skin. Sodium hyaluronate is smaller than hyaluronic acid and is absorbed better into the skin. However, that doesn’t mean it’s necessarily better than HA. Often products contain both versions so your skin can reap the benefits.
In addition to serums and lotions containing HA, you might also have heard of hyaluronic acid fillers. These are products delivered through a needle into the skin to provide structure and support as well as volume replacement. But don’t be fooled by some topical HA products that claim to be a topical filler. Topical HA is not as effective as injectable HA to replace volume loss.
The good news is that just about anyone can tolerate topical HA. Yes, sensitive skin folks rejoice! Irritation is uncommon but if you experience redness or dryness, then check your ingredients. It might be due to a low molecular weight version of HA and you likely need to trade it for a larger HA molecule. HA rarely causes allergic reactions and extra bonus—it’s safe for use during pregnancy and while breastfeeding. If you have oily skin, then opt for a water or gel- based HA product and if you’re on the drier side, then go for an oil-based version.
If use an HA product, it’s important to use it correctly. HA often comes as a solo serum or might be combined with a moisturizer or peptides. If you’re using an HA serum, as a rule, you want to apply it to clean, damp skin, before a moisturizer. First important tip—damp. If your skin is dry, then HA will pull water from the dermis which dries your skin out more. When you apply your hyaluronic acid to damp skin, you’ve given it a water source to draw moisture from. Second point, apply a moisturizer right after to seal the HA serum in and prevent evaporation. If that’s too much to think about, then forgo a serum and choose an HA product that has other moisturizing ingredients like ceramides so that it delivers HA and seals it at the same time.
Trotter’s Take:HA is a great add on to help with hydration but using it correctly is essential to see the best results and the plumping effect.
Wondering about HA and other skincare changes you might make this fall with the seasons changing? Then check out my latest podcast with Raquel Merlin as we talk skincare changes for fall.
