Grab that OJ and read on! Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin that is naturally present in some foods but also added in some cases. We can’t make our own vitamin C (unlike many animals that can), so it’s an essential component of our diet. Dietary sources of vitamin C include fruits and veggies like citrus fruits, red and green peppers, kiwifruit, broccoli, strawberries and brussels sprouts. Orange juice, grapefruit juice and tomato juice are also high in vitamin C. If you’re a cereal eater, you’ll be happy to know that vitamin C is added to some of your favorites. The bad news is that vitamin C is destroyed by heat so if you prefer cooked veggies, you lessen your consumption.
Vitamin C boosts your immune system, lowers blood pressure, reduces heart disease and dementia risk, and improves iron absorption. It is required for the biosynthesis of collagen, L-carnitine, and certain neurotransmitters. Did I say collagen? Yes, I did—more on that later. As if vitamin C couldn’t get any better, it does. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant. If you recall, antioxidants fight off harmful free radicals. When free radicals accumulate in the body, they can promote oxidative stress which has been linked to many chronic diseases and of course, wrinkling and premature aging.
So while we’ve been discussing oral vitamin C, what about the topical version? Most of us dermatologists consider it an essential part of a good skincare routine. Think of your skin as under attack each day by pesky free radicals and pollution. Free radicals activate certain enzymes that are responsible for breaking collagen down in the skin. As an antioxidant, vitamin C fights off free radicals and neutralizes them, which enhances sun protection. Fun fact—that’s why many sunscreens contain vitamin C or antioxidant blends! Vitamin C also supports collagen synthesis and can reduce educe the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation and brighten the skin. Finally, vitamin C can improve skin texture and hydration.
Vitamin C comes in several different forms including L-ascorbic acid (LAA), sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP), ascorbyl palmitate (AP), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (TA). LAA is the most pure and potent, but it comes as a cost because it is the most irritating. Darker skin types should use it with caution as higher concentrations might lead to hyperpigmentation. LAA is also very sensitive to air and light which can make it degrade quickly and hence become less effective. This means LAA needs careful storage—preferably in a dark, air-tight container in a cool, dark environment. To help increase its stability, LAA is often combined with other ingredients, like ferulic acid. TA takes the prize for skin penetration. It is an oil-soluble form of vitamin C and is ideal for all skin types. Ascorbyl palmitate and SAP are good for acne prone and more sensitive skin types and MAP is unique for its ability to increase skin hydration and collagen.
Often dermatologists recommend LAA 10-20% for oily skin. Vitamin C can be added into your skincare regimen as a serum or in combination with other products, such as a moisturizer or your sunscreen. You may see vitamin C paired with vitamin E or Technically, you can apply vitamin C in the evening or morning. However, it’s often recommended as a part of a morning routine to avoid combining it with other potentially irritating ingredients, like topical retinoids or benzoyl peroxide. When looking for a vitamin C product, consider your skin type to guide your choice of what form of vitamin C might be best. Gradual application is the general rule to monitor for irritation and to build tolerance. Results may be seen after three to four weeks, but often can take three to six months for full effect.
Trotter’s Take: Vitamin C offers many skin benefits and is an essential part of an effective skincare routine. Vitamin C, put it on me!
