Let’s face it, fragrance sells. We all do the discerning sniff test when considering a new shampoo, moisturizer and yes, perfume. I am even guilty of buying a product merely because it smells good and not because it delivers excellent results. It’s kind of like purchasing a new wine just based on the label. Ever done that? See– you are not alone!
While we can’t see fragrance, it is a physical substance. When you inhale, you are actually breathing in tiny molecules. Some fragrances can contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which can irritate the airways and male their way into our bloodstream. Fragrances go beyond your favorite cologne or perfume, and are in candles, air fresheners, cleansers, shampoos, lotions and deodorants. You can also find fragrance in laundry detergent, dryer sheets, cleaning solutions and e-cigarettes. Once a fragrance hits the inside of the nose, olfactory receptors detect these molecules and communicate to your brain via the olfactory nerve. This is what allows you to perceive smell, like warm bread baking in the oven or your favorite perfume. What is fascinating is the power of fragrance. Your sense of smell is intimately tied to the limbic system, the brain’s emotional center. The limbic system plays a prominent role in mood regulation and explains why scents can trigger a memory or emotion that might catch you off guard. Scents can also affect our state of mind. Aromatherapy is not just a feel good thing but truly has a scientific rationale behind it. It’s the whole reason part of my nighttime routine includes lavender oil. As a dermatologist, I am supposed to hate on fragrance, but confession coming—I really am a fragrance girl. However, the reality is many people cannot tolerate fragrance. Fragrances can aggravate conditions like asthma, COPD and might trigger migraines. Fragrance allergies can also occur and present with itchy/watery eyes, congestion, runny nose, throat irritation, coughing or wheezing. When it comes to fragrance in personal care products, fragrance can be irritating for sensitive skin types or those with rosacea or atopic dermatitis. Moreover, fragrance can cause contact dermatitis. Contact dermatitis is a type of eczema that develops when the skin comes into direct contact with a substance that causes irritation or an allergic reaction. If you suspect a fragrance allergy, patch testing can be performed against common fragrances and even individualized to your own personal hygiene products. Fragrance contact allergy is one of the reasons behind why dermatologists recommend fragrance free products—to reduce any chance of irritation or possible allergy from fragrance. The reality is, many people like their cleanser or moisturizer based on the scent, so this can be a hard rule to follow. The good news is, if you can tolerate fragrance, go for it. If you can’t or have sensitive skin, then it’s best to avoid fragrance. The real challenge is identifying products that contain fragrance. In the US, the labeling of fragrance can include a list of over 3,100 different ingredients and honestly, it’s just plain confusing and deceiving. It’s important to know that the FDA does not regulate the terms fragrance free and unscented. Fragrance free means that the product is free of any added fragrance to make the product smell a certain way. However, a fragrance free product could still have fragrance ingredients, either because of the use of fragrance ingredients as preservatives, or the use of botanicals. If fragrance free isn’t a good clue what about unscented? Unscented products are formulated to have the appearance of no scent. And ironically, it is often a masking fragrance that accomplishes this goal. What’s even more confusing is that a product labelled as “natural”, “organic” or even “hypoallergenic” can still have fragrance or other allergens. The final kicker, because the FDA doesn’t regulate the terms fragrance free and unscented, a manufacturer can decide how to define those terms. So check this out. A brand could call a product fragrance free because it doesn’t have any synthetic fragrance yet it may contain an essential oil that carries a scent. Frustrating huh? The hard truth—opt for fragrance free when you can but ultimately it’s up to the consumer to look at the label and become familiar with various fragrances. If you suspect you could be allergic, then patch testing can help sort out the details. Trotter’s Take: Fragrance can be a compelling force for the mind and body, but may not be a positive ingredient for everyone. If you are sensitive to fragrance, go fragrance free and check your labels. Curious if you might have contact dermatitis to fragrance or something else? Then you need to check out my podcast with Dr. Dathan Haman, where we unmask the mystery around contact dermatitis.
